SINGULARLY SENSATIONAL

The Plumed Horse, Crossmichael. by The Dining Guides The Plumed Horse is a tiny restaurant in the sleepy Galloway village of Crossmichael. It has a Michelin star, which puts it amongst Scotland's elite. Earlier this year my visit was ruined by a horrendous migraine. Despite Chef/owner Tony Borthwick's gallant efforts to subdue lights and feed me paracetemol, I admitted defeat and left after only a few mouthfuls. So, when wine-pages number two, Ali Downes, announced he had made a booking, I asked him to supply this review: The short menu includes four choices per course. I started with a beautiful-looking terrine, which marbled dark pigeon, lighter partridge and buttery foie gras, wrapped in savoy cabbage leaves. This came with a truffled dressing and the intense flavours worked well together. My wife had smoked haddock & spinach quiche with a roast scallop, the four large chunks of fish complementing a creamy filling. The main courses proved equally interesting and well executed. The roast fillet of Wolf fish was perfectly cooked, though its character - on the bland side of delicate - meant it did not compete with the strong flavours of the accompanying Solway brown shrimp & scallop fishcake with crab mashed potato. The breast of guinea fowl was tender, and came with a delicious sausage of its leg meat, celeriac purée and ceps. Trifle may be an unexpected dessert option, but this one was based on sherried Mirabelle plums and came with a rich dark cherry sorbet. The caramel bavarois was good too, and had a strong flavour without being too sweet or too burnt. Coffee and interesting petit-fours complete the evening. The short, but interesting wine list ranges from £3.50 for 250ml of the house wine, to £85 for a 96 La Fleur Petrus. We opted for an old vines Pinot Gris from Alsace at a reasonable £17. Dinner for two including a half bottle of Sauternes came, amazingly, to exactly £100. What­ great value for this quality (12/03). Closed Saturday lunch, Sunday dinner and all day Monday.